Ratanakiri province is Cambodia’s wild east, home to a variety of shy Khmer Loeu (Upper Khmer, or chunchiet). It features a vast diversity of natural attractions, including lakes, waterfalls and the extensive Virachey National Park.
The ideal time to explore the province is in December to February since traveling the roads during the dry season will surely coat you all over with a fine orange color while in the wet season the roads look like an orange mush.
The provincial capital of Ratanakiri province, Banlung is the best base from which to explore the natural attractions in the area. The town itself doesn’t offer much in attractions but locals are friendly and help make visitors right at home. Ask around town about arranging an elephant ride in one of the surrounding villages, although Mondulkiri is the better choice for elephant rides.
Try to get a responsible local guide when exploring Ratanakiri, as the minority people around the province can be quite sensitive to outsiders going around their villages unescorted.
What to do/see
Boeng Yeak Laom
A crater lake situated amid lush jungle, this is one of the most serene spots in Cambodia. The water is exceptionally clear making for the perfect natural swimming pool.
Admission costs US$1 while English-speaking indigenous guides cost around US$3 to US$7 per per-son depending on the number. Visitors may contact the Yeak Loam Community Based Eco-Tourism group for names of community recommended guides. The profits from this are primarily used for the benefit of the community.
Yeak Laom is 5km from Banlung, just off the road to Bokheo. Motos (US$1 each way) are the easiest way to get here.
Chaa Ong, KaTieng and Kinchaan
There are numerous waterfalls in the province, but many are inaccessible in the wet season and dried out in the dry season. The three most commonly visited are Chaa Ong, KaTieng and Kinchaan.
It is best to get a local guide when you want to visit any of these, as they are off the beaten track and can be difficult to find alone. The most spectacular of the three waterfalls is Chaa Ong as it is set in a jungle gorge and you’re able to clamber behind the waterfall itself.
Voen Sai
Located on the Tonle Sap, Voen Sai is an eclectic community including Chi-nese, Lao and Kreung villagers. Across the river is an old Chinese settlement dating back to the 19th century, a slice of Sichuan, and further downstream several Lao and chunchiet villages.
Virachey National Park
This is the largest protected area in Cambodia, stretching east to Vietnam, north to Laos and west to Stung Treng. The park has not been fully explored, but this hasn’t stopped guesthouses offering ‘treks’ in the park. Travelers are cautioned about this as this usually means an expensive walk in denuded forest near the park, but not a visit to the park, as it is at least a day’s walk just to reach the park boundary.
Tourists wanting to see the real park should visit the Ministry of Environment (MoE) office in Banlung to arrange for a serious expedition. Easier access to the forest is also available from Siem Pang, at the western end of the park, which can be reached by moto from Banlung or by boat from Stung Treng.